By the middle of the afternoon we were driving in the deep Northern parts of South Luangwa National Park. The savannah was dotted with large herds of antelope such as Red Lechwe and Impala; there were Warthogs, Giraffe, Buffalo bulls and Zebra. On arrival to our area we walked about three miles before arriving at our first night’s camp called Mumbulu. It was our first day of our three-day walking safari. The loud grunts and dirty laughters of pods of hippos bid farewell to the blood red setting sun, whilst the whooping calls of hyenas and owls gave introduction to a beautiful night sky lit up with trillions of stars, visible planets and constellations. The day smells soon disappeared as it cooled off and soon the smell of our campfire took over. We could hear a Pel's fishing owl screaming from a nearby Ebony, scops owls calling to each other from different directions and the melodies of nightjars echoed through the night. Every now and again, the loud and impressive roar of a pride of lions not too far off would drown all the other sounds of the night.
The next morning we set off in the direction of where we heard the lions calling from, hoping to come across them and discover what it was they were sounding so content about. We came across Zebra, Waterbuck, Red Lechwe, Warthogs and different troops of baboons. In some places we walked beneath large Ebony forests, and sausage trees, which were in full flower. The ground was carpeted in velvet red flowers, which we used to walk on to stoke the impala resting under the trees. We noticed vultures flying, taking off from the distant trees as they were taking advantage of the thermals starting to rise as it started to warm up. As we arrived at the site where they had been roosting, we noticed that the grass had been trampled and the smell of their choking urine still lurked in the air, but we did not see a sign of them. We walked for another five hundred yards and came to a dry riverbed with steep gullies. Suddenly we heard small grunts and sounds of big paws hitting the ground as the lions took off, away from us. They had heard us coming and ran off without knowing where we were exactly. We were thankful that they ran off the opposite direction. We found a safe position on top of a termite mound under a tall shady Jackal Berry tree where we sat and watched the pride walk staring at us from a thicket about fifty yards away. From no where a small cub of about six months old got totally disoriented and started to walk in our direction yelping and calling looking for it’s mother. It walked within thirty feet of us before it realised what we were and turned a complete ninety degrees after giving us a snarl and a growl. In the mean time we were keeping an eye at the mother who by now had her eyes firmly fixed at her cub. After watching them for about half an hour we left the site and you could see the pride looking at us and making sure that we were definitely leaving. It was a pride of three lionesses, two cubs and one sub-adult male. That evening we went for a small walk along the Kasansanya River watching the pods of hippos sleeping in the water and some spread out along the beaches. There was one hippo who was almost completely pink and stood out from the rest. So we named him Pink Floyd.
On our next two days we saw plenty more antelope, walked into hippos inland, more giraffe that we walked very close to, and walked into another pride of lionesses. On our last night we could hear a leopard calling and the sound of a stressed troop of baboons gave him away.
Our last night in South Luangwa we spent at Chichele lodge, which is a setting on a hill overlooking the Luangwa river and it’s flood plains rich with herds of Puku antelope, Zebra and elephant. That night we went out for an afternoon walk and ended up driving and using the spotlight on our way back in the dark. We saw a number of white tailed mongoose, genets, bush babies, jackals and elephant shrews. That night the roars of lions just below the hill sounded through the night. As we sat at our table on the veranda the next morning, we had the perfect sighting of a mating pair of lions that sat under a mopane tree in full view of us. Every time they finished mating, they would move to a different spot. “Not many people have this sort of view during their breakfast,” my visitors commented.
We arrived in Livingstone at Sussi and Chuma, the romantic teak lodge built up on stilts overlooking the fast flowing waters of the upper Zambezi River. That afternoon we potted around the calm backwaters of the river in a small pontoon, and just enjoyed the sounds of the flowing waters and the grunts of the hippos all around us. As the sun was setting and casting mirror images of it’s golden lit clouds and sky, a pride of lions called from the Zambezi national park on the Zimbabwean side. From hear, you could hear the thundering sound of the water as it plummeted over three hundred feet of ancient granite of the Victoria Falls. On our last morning we visited Mosi O Tunya national park in search of the resident White Rhino. We managed to get within twenty yards of one of them and eventually saw the other four resting, basking in the early morning sun. We had a big herd of buffalo, numerous Warthog, Giraffe, Zebra and impala on that drive.
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23rd August 2002 - Mana Pools Safari
We set off by light aircraft to the Zambezi Valley from Victoria Falls. Flying over Lake Kariba was breathtaking, seeing all the small islands and beautiful shorelines dotted with old buffalo bulls and herds of elephant drinking or mud wallowing.
We arrived at Ruckomechi Camp and were welcomed by friendly faces, old and new. After a quick introduction and a light snack we did not waist anytime and set off for a short afternoon drive and to be able to see the sunset on the banks of this amazing River, as mighty as it is, the river we would get familiar with for the next six nights. We could hear the laughter of hippos all the way down stream and see clouds of mist from the sudden breaths of hippos as they snorted out aloud. That familiar smell of the running water mixed with the scent of many animals having come and gone to drink, to bath and to cool off escaping the usual oppressive temperatures of the valley. That afternoon we saw a big herd of about two hundred buffalo, a number of small groups of elephant, Water buck and Impala. At night we weaved through the acacia trees to get to our rooms to stay clear off the grazing hippos within the camp area. Around dinnertime, we could hear lions calling in three different places. The camp had briefed us that there had been a total take over of the area by some new dominant male lions that had kicked out the resident boys.
We enjoyed the walking in the mornings and took time to appreciate the site of some of the impressive tall termite mounds, which were so fascinating, and being one of the most sophisticated forms of life, there was a lot to discuss about them. We could have talked about them for hours. We found a lone elephant bull who was half asleep under a grove of Tamarind trees, so we sneaked close enough to him that we could hear him taking deep breaths, we could hear him sound low stomach rumblings as his eyes dipped shut and partially opened. He was clearly at rest. The big elephants such as this bull spend a good part of their mornings or in the heat of the day half sleeping half dozing standing up under the shade of the trees away from any disturbances. Occasionally they will find a gently sloping hill or termite mound and use it as a pillow, so as to be able to stand up with great haste should the need arise. Whilst crossing the deep sands the Ruckomechi River, we were spotted a male leopard walking across the river stoking a herd of Impala. We followed, whilst watching it for a while. By the time we got to the herd of Impala, it had disappeared, leaving no trace of it having been there.
After our late breakfast we went off to our rooms and waited for the highlight of Ruckomechi Camp, having the herds of elephant wonder into camp and take over the grounds. It was about midday when they all arrived, we counted a total of sixteen of them, including all the babies. Some scratched their backs against the thatch of the rooms, some against the polls that held the main beams of our rooms. We just managed to see two young ones drinking the fresh water from the camp splash pool. The camp constantly has to fill up and empty the pool as the elephants have frequently drunk from there and hence leaving the water chemical free. This herd of elephants has changed in it’s numbers and even family members, every year in the winter when the Acacia tree bare fruits, they come into camp and pick up the fruits which are very rich in protein. They have become very much aware of the campgrounds and seem to show very little concern for the movement of people. They have remained wild and are still regarded as dangerous animals but are very relaxed around human being but only within camp as long as they are treated with respect and rather they approached you than the other way round. This has got to be the best wild elephants experience one can ever get in any safari camp I know.
We soon bid farewell to Ruckomechi and started our three-day canoe safari on the Zambezi River. It had been windy that morning but it soon settled by afternoon and we were able to casually drift down the river and enjoy the beautiful late afternoon light as we canoed past a number of elephants drinking, buffalo, Impala and Water buck grazing on the flood plains. As we arrived at our first night campsite at Vundu, the camp was full of elephants browsing on the rain trees above our tents. They soon moved and we retired to our campfire where we enjoyed a few drinks and later the delicious spreads of our bush chef.
For the next two days we canoed and walked along the entire show line of Mana pools seeing several herds of buffalo, Eland, Impala, Zebra and Kudu. Other animals we saw were Bushbuck and Grysbok. We saw countless numbers of Hippos with their young. The experience of being in a steady moving vessel without the sound of a motor, but only the splashes and sounds of water from beneath, supported by the calls of screaming fish eagles and Egrets, was overwhelming but most enjoyable. Walking up to a number of Elephant bulls and spending time amongst the herds made us feel a part of them. Our crew that went ahead with all the equipment and set up our next camp site were amazing at setting up our tents as though they were in the same place so they became familiar to us irrespective of the fact that they were several miles down stream of each other. On our last afternoon, we walked the top end of Chikwenya Island were we came across Elephant, Buffalo, Bushbuck, Kudu, impala and troops of Baboons. Our greatest sighting was that of a Pel’s fishing owl that flew low past our path from one Natal mahogany to the next under a Mahogany Cathedral forest. It was beautiful in there, unspoilt and serene with big vines draped to the ground from the tall tress, large fig trees standing tall, Capris bushes in full flower releasing sweet aromatic smells.
Our final stop over was Chikwenya Camp were we spent two nights. For our first afternoon, we had sundowners at Grasshopper creak where we watched a whole colony of Carmine bee-eaters form silhouettes against the magical, orange-lit sky. Every night in camp we had hyenas, elephant and a number of honey badgers. The camp staff told us some amazing stories of the forceful take over of the staff kitchen by the honey badgers. They are extremely brave and confident animals that especially for their size and always seem ready to take on the rest f the world. We drove the entire flood plains of Chikwenya, which were rich with game. There was not one time that you looked up and were not watching anything, whether it was a warthog, elephant, Zebra or Eland. We were fortunate to see a family group of Nyala in the back of camp near the platform. We were lucky again and had a brief sighting of a leopard on our night drive on our last evening. The beauty and romance of Chikwenya and it’s staff have never failed to leave an impression in our hearts, so much that we were saddened to bid farewell, but I am sure it will not be too long until we return to what I have always known as a special place, nature’s very own wild and remote corner, full of great charm and mystery that is irresistible.
B. Ndlovu
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September 2002 - A Glimpse of Botswana
When we arrived at Kasane airport, our pilot was waiting for us to board his Islander Twin engine aircraft. It didn’t take very long before we were flying over the wide, open spaces of Botswana. Vast tracks of land, some areas scattered with herds of cattle but most of the areas purely wild and uninhabited by man. We were on our way to the North of Chobe, to the Linyanti area.
We landed at the DumaTau airstrip where our driver with ice-cold refreshments met us. The temperature was at least a hundred and the air was very hazy. This time of the year there are bush fires everywhere and the combination of the smoke and the dust paints a smokey horizon that filters the harsh sun but not enough to stop the drying out of most of the surface water. The Linyanti game reserve has at this time become almost like a desert and with very little grass cover in most areas, the woodlands looked bare, as all it’s trees were naked having lost all their leaves. As we approached DumaTau camp, we could see the only greenery spread along the riverbed of the lagoon. The camp however is surrounded by African Mangosteins, which were green and flourishing full of flower. Elephants evidently love this creamy, white flower of this peculiar-shaped tree. As we arrived into the camp, we had to negotiate our way through two herds of elephant that filled the campgrounds. On the front of every tent, the elephants frequently vacuumed the decking, sweeping with their trucks and gathering all the fallen flowers. If you sat still on your decking you would have the elephant feeding right by your feet. I was very fortunate and had the pleasure of three bulls visit my tent and proceed to eat their fill. This was after giving the grove of leaves above me a good shack until my patio was carpeted with the white flowers that looked like confetti.
For our first morning we did a three hour walk, where we spent time looking at some of the smaller but fascinating things that one never takes note of from the top of a vehicle. We must have spent about half an hour next to a termite mound discussing it’s intricate and complex system that has been referred to as one of the most efficient forms of life that exists. We talked about tracks, droppings from different animals and even stopped to learn about how one could make rope from the bark of certain trees. We also managed to sneak close to a young elephant bull that was fast asleep on the slope of the termite mound. We could hear his heavy breathing and stomach rumbles as he snoozed, he was totally unaware of our presence, and so we kept it that way. We came across some old carcasses of hippo and buffalo that had been picked clean, by various carrion eating wildlife. We only saw a hooded vulture that sat in a near by Camel thorn acacia.
At noon, we opted to sit up on a platform overlooking the Linyanti lagoon. We were entertained by a troop of baboons that visited the water for an afternoon drink. As soon as they drank they would run across the sand escaping the blistering midday heat under their thick-callused feet. We watched baby crocodiles swim and sun bath on the banks, a herd if kudu, Impala and a sleeping pod of hippos. That afternoon we took a drive down the famous Savuti channel which is a recent river system that has seized to flow. This was a result of a shift in the earth from underlying tectonic movements causing the river to be diverted and change its course. This dry channel has become savannah grassland, giving rise to a wide variety of antelope, and big herds of Zebra. Where there is an abundance of wild life, the predator awaits and seizes the opportunity. It is on this stolen river, that wild life documentaries have been captured, particularly that of predators. Once a pride of thirty-six lions were recorded in this area. After being told of a leopard that had killed an Impala ram, we went out in search for the shy and elusive cat. We found it resting under a rain tree, having dragged its kill about a hundred yards from where it had killed it. The cat was a youngster and would have been vulnerable to other predators out in the open plains. He took no notice of us even though we were a few metres away from him, as he was pre-occupied with grooming his soft and fury neck, which was covered in blood. He had given up dragging it any further because the horns of his prey had locked into the fork of a dead tree on the ground. We took many photos of the cat and after half an hour we left him still as relaxed and calm. As we drove down the channel past a dried water hole we noticed some movement in a clump of tall dry grass. We went round to have a better look in the direction of the movement and waited not too far from its path, a male Cheetah walked out. When he came out into the open, the first thing he did was having a stretch and then arch his back like a typical cat waking from his sleep. That was a good find. He was a very shy cheetah because he did not let us get any closer. Soon he moved off and disappeared into the woodland. In the mean time, there were wildebeest and warthog not too far from there. So we waited to see if anything would come of it, but to no avail. We sipped on gin and tonics, nibbling on delicious well-prepared snacks, as the daylight hours drew to an end with a magnificent sunset filtering through the dust, thrown up by a herd of dust bathing elephants. As we drove home in the semi-dark we could see the waking of another life. Under our spotlight we could see Bat-eared foxes, Spring Hares and Bush babies moving restlessly as they started their day. The nocturnal birds such as Night Jars and Coursers suddenly appeared in the front of the headlights of our land rover. As we were about to drive off into the woodland we could see pairs of eyes of the same height, walking, seemingly with a purpose. We went closer, and we could not believe our luck, we had three male Cheetahs right in front of us. These were apparently the dominant Cheetah of the area. They were in good condition and walked so elegantly as though they were on show, long legged and walking tall. We followed them for a while until they got to the tree line where they stopped and with sprays of urine spread their scent all over the bushes and tree trucks. We finished our evening drive with a pair of Giant Eagle owls and an African wild Cat. In one afternoon we had clocked three of the cats.
Our last afternoon at DumaTau, we spent the afternoon on the water on a small powerboat. We had two herds of elephants swimming across the lagoon. We could see a cloud of dust hanging above the trees in the distance where a big herd of buffalo was walking. The late afternoon in these true wilderness areas are truly magic just before sunset. That last golden hour of sunlight falling on the earth, all the sounds are amplified, whether it is elephants trumpeting, baboons chirping as they prepare to roost, Egyptian geese hissing and squawking as they take off from the water, it is a special time of the day. The nights are always great fun especially after dinner retiring to the campfire where so many stories of past experiences in the wild are told by guides and visitors who also tell of their travelling experiences. The stories are occasionally interrupted by lions calling in the back round, the screech of a barn owl, or by the hooping call of a hyena in the campgrounds.
It was our last morning that we finally found a pride of three lionesses and five very young cubs of about six months old. They had only recently started to venture out in the open, but they were still timid. The big lionesses lay spread out under the Combretum bush getting away from the warming sun. Two of the lionesses were the mothers. When the cubs eventually relaxed, they would play with each other and walk up to the mothers and try to force the mothers to join in by biting on their tails or jumping on the head of one of them. They were full and it looked that they had eaten not so long ago. When a herd of Zebra walked by not too far, the most they would do was lift their heads up and drop them down again and drift back to sleep.
The next aircraft was a small Cessna 206, which took us to the Okavango Delta. We landed at Jao airstrip and made our way to Kwetsane where we stayed for the next three days. On our first afternoon, on a game drive we sat under a Marula Tree watching a leopard silhouetted against an orange-lit sky at sunset. That female leopard had been seen that morning in the area with two cubs, which it had obviously hidden in a palm grove just below the tree. The next morning we saw the tracks of the leopard with her cubs having walked down the sandy road.
Our favourite day was waking up to two big male lions walking right past the front of the camp as we had our continental breakfast. They walked past with great confidence and occasionally they would stop to look at us because they could see movement from the camp. The two boys showed a great respect for the camp especially during the day, because their natural fear for man as their predator still existed. We left that morning for Hunda Island, taking with us a picnic basket and a box of cold refreshments. We saw buffalo, Lechwe, warthogs, wildebeest, herds of Zebra and a number of elephants. It was interesting to see the contract between the wetlands of the Delta in the Jao game reserve and the dryness of the Island within such close distance. As we drove past the back of Tubu tree camp, a large male leopard dashed into the grove of a palm forest. He was one of the biggest males I have ever seen, and I distinctly remember that he was a very dark chocolate colour. He was very shy and obviously not accustomed to seeing any vehicles. That night we saw the two big male lions again feeding on a Lechwe antelope that they had robbed from the leopard we had seen the night before.
On our last morning we experienced the peace and tranquil of the Delta from a makoro. These fibreglass vessels styled on the concept of the traditional dug out, that the locals used as their mode of transport and fishing, move graciously through the growths of bull rush and beautiful water lilies in the marshes. We were intrigued by the skills of the polars keeping the vessel stable as they negotiated their way through water only inches deep. Because of the natural filtering system through sand and various thickly woven grass and weeds, the waters were crystal clear, so clear that it was tempting to reach out for a drink.
After brunch, we bid farewell to our hosts at Kwetsane and left for the airstrip where we took our last light aircraft to Maun, where we connected for our flight back home. As we took off we flew very low for a while taking photographs of the palm islands completely surrounded by water. The intricate details of animal paths weaving in and out of the delta, elephants on the move from island to island, herds of Lechwe antelope running sending splashes of water up in the air. It was the perfect Garden of Eden.
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October 2002 - Zimbabwe, The Beautiful
The safari started with two nights at Imbamatombo, a beautiful lodge on the outskirts of Harare. Following Imbamatombo, the guests flew to Matusadona Water Wilderness on Lake Kariba. Matusadona Water Wilderness is a floating lodge on the lake in a private Bay along the Southern Lake shores. It is by far one of the most unique experiences. The blissful memories of beautiful sunsets over the Lake, tracking wild Black Rhino, and the fascinating landscapes of the Matuzviadona mountain range are unforgettable. After a day’s activity on boat excursions, game drives and walks on land; you retire to your own floating cabin in the most serene and peaceful setting.
After an hour and a half of flying from Kariba to Hwange in a light aircraft, I picked up the group at the Linkwasha airstrip in Hwange National Park. They arrived at about midday, and by then the temperatures where soaring in their hundreds. As we drove to Little Makalolo along the Linkwasha Vlei, we stopped at a water hole to watch a big breeding herd of elephants drinking and bathing. We had just seen a Sable antelope walk into the open area with intentions to go to the water hole for a drink, but something obstructed him. We looked and searched further into the Teak scrub where he had been staring into before he took off, and under the scrub lying in the shade was a pride of four lions. Their bellies were round and looked full, so much that one of them seemed to struggle finding comfort to have his sleep. They were hot and frustrated by the lack of cover from the sun because most of the trees in the area had lost their leaves, leaving them exposed and partially under the torment of the October heat. The little shade there was, they found.
On our first afternoon we took a casual drive for sunset to what they called the little Samavundla water hole. That afternoon we had about two hundred elephants around us. I remember our voices being drowned by the loud rumbling and trumpeting of the African giants as they haggled over the best drinking spots. After drinking they would move off and throw clouds of dust up onto their backs and cover themselves in it. During the day it was bathing in mud pools to cover themselves and escape the midday sun. That night on our way back to our camp, we found the pride of lions we had seen earlier and by this time, they lay spread out around the pan. With their stomachs distended out, they were not going to be walking too far, too quick that night. Gauging themselves to discomfort is often the behaviour of lions, both young and old, not knowing when their next meal will come.
On our second morning, we were awaken by two big male lions, roaring loudly from about a hundred yards away. I scratched around in the dark for my binoculars and hurried out to my front door. I could just see the two big males, exchanging their vocals from the top of a mound under a tall lead wood tree. It was a beautiful wake up call, certainly a lot more desirable than the beeping sound of my monotonous alarm of my wristwatch. We did many games drives, a couple of walks and saw some amazing wildlife especially around the water points, herds of buffalo, Sable, Kudu, waterbuck, Impala, Steenbok, Eland, Duiker, Giraffe, Roan Antelope, Hippos and many more big herds of elephants.
We had the most exciting outing on our last night at the Makalolo plains in the Linkwasha area. It was about an hour before sunset when we drove up to an area called Back pans, when we drove up to the pans, we spotted three lion cubs of less that a year old. The minute they saw us, they moved with great haste towards us, in a typical lion-stalking manner. I stopped the land rover and waited to see what these youngsters were up to. In the mean time I cast my eyes under every visible bush and tree in sight to find their parents, but I did not see any. By this time the cubs were less than ten yards from my door. They sat down for a few seconds staring at us with interest, but particularly at our tyres. As I started to move forward, so they moved even closer to us. It became evident that it was not an act of aggression towards us, but rather a curiosity and interest in the moving vehicle. I guessed that they had not seen too many vehicles and therefore took particular interest; also they did not seem to have the mannerisms of cubs that had been taught not to expose themselves to such unknown danger. These cubs came right up to our front wheel and proceeded to play and paw the tyre as if it where playing a game with us. There was no sign of aggression or serious threat, but the thought of the mother coming and seeing all of this had not left me. When we started to drive off to get away from them, they took even more of a fascination because now, they had found something that moves that they were interested in playing with, so they ran after our Land Rover. We gave up trying to drive away because we seemed to be drawing them further and further away from their place, so we sat and just enjoyed having them around us. They got caught up and perhaps tired of playing and we managed to break away from them, by that time it was sunset and we had another half an hour of light. The excitement was not over yet…
After a drinks break we continued back and not too far from where we had seen the cubs we found another pride, three lionesses and two males. So we sat and watched them for some time, and then the cubs decided to pitch up to the scene. I had guessed that at least two of these lionesses were the mothers of the cubs, but I was wrong. As soon as one of the lionesses spotted the cubs, she did a long curl round and started to seriously stalk them. It was fascinating to see this strange behaviour; she seemed to have cruel intentions too. The cubs saw the lioness stalking them and they cuddled up very close together in a tight circle and began to make whimpering sounds of fear and dread, they were defenceless and vulnerable. We had two options, to drive off at that moment and not have to see one of nature’s cruel faces, but suffer not knowing what ever happened, or staying and watching the drama and have full knowledge of what took place. We decided we would stay on. The lioness got within five yards of them and leaped forwards to the squealing cubs, as she did that she growled aggressively showing all her teeth, but not once did she lunge her head forward to bite. After much growling and grimacing, she turned around and by then the whole pride had come up to see what the commotion was all about. She eventually left them alone and the cubs remained cuddled up together waiting to see what was going to happen next. At this time, we were of no interest at all to the cubs. We eventually left the party, knowing that, the cub’s lives had been spared, at least for this time round.
We were halfway through our evening’s excitement. When we drove past the main Makalolo pan, we had to negotiate our way through at least over a hundred elephants that where all over the road, as we were leaving, we could see a newly born baby elephant walk away with it’s mother. For some reason the baby got very confused and started to turn around and run in our direction from about fifty yards away, it made it’s way to us, running into a few tree stumps along the way. The cow, trumpeted calling its baby. I remember hearing the loud trumpets that followed, mad panic and frustration from the mother. We could not easily drive off, as we still had some elephants to negotiate with for the road, and we were now operating with our red filtered spotlight and dim headlights of the vehicle. The baby walked right up to the front of the vehicle and round to my door. I reached out my hand and stroked it’s back before hitting its backside with some force to try to get it to get away from us. The mother started to come, still trumpeting and vocalising with much anger. The cub after a second smack on the back side pushed off and the mother getting there just in time to direct it with her trunk away from us. The baby had come to us and we had stayed well clear from their space bubble, so the mother treated us with some fear and respect, and did not try to attack us, but she put on such a serious performance that left me with a cold sweat and had it been light enough, I would have seen the pale faces of my guests at the back of my vehicle. That night whilst around the campfire, I remember hearing Ken, one of my visitors telling us that that night was probably the most exciting night he had ever experienced in his entire life and he would treasure it.
We sadly left Hwange, but we were in for a different experience, The Victoria Falls. We arrived at Sussi and Chuma Lodge just outside Livingstone, Zambia, in the late afternoon after an afternoon in Victoria Falls town and one of its markets.
see the Falls from both the Zambian side and the Zimbabwean side. We visited the traditional African markets at Maramba Village, did game drives into Mosi O Tunya park where we saw five White Rhino, and did two sunset cruises on the upper end of the Zambezi river. Most of the group rafted the Zambezi River on the last day. Sussi and Chuma lodge was exquisite, very comfortable and the best setting to end a brilliant safari.
Written by Professional Guide, Beks Ndlovu
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